Then you rapidly flick and drag your brush back and forth along those ridges. I’d say about 75-80% for this first coat. The basic premise is that you load up a dark grey on your brush and then wipe most of it off on a paper towel. You can watch Teri do it in her tutorial video here.
If you aren’t familiar with drybrushing, it’s a super simple technique used to lighten up the edges of things. Step 7 – It’s drybrushing time! Once the primer has fully dried (about 24 hours) you can start turning these lumps of foam into mountains. Make sure the paint gets into the deep recesses of your ridges this will do half the painting work for you! Krylon H2O and Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch 2x Black Matte Primer are the two brands I know for sure will work. Spray primer is much easier, just be careful it doesn’t dissolve the foam. Step 6 – Paint or prime your hills black. Take your dog for a walk and pick some up along the way! These are available from any FLGS that sells miniature supplies but can also be collected outside. Step 5 – Brush PVA glue onto all the flat surfaces and cover with dirt, sand, and tiny pebbles. Step 4 – Stack pieces on top of each other and glue them down! Let dry for a few hours. This step is messy so do it somewhere that’s easy to clean up! In the picture below the foam on the right-side of the knife is clean after cutting, on the left I’ve started the ridge-making process. As you push, dig, and drag your tool across the foam it will begin to break and flake off, giving your hills the rough natural edges you want. If you have one, I recommend a normal kitchen knife or butter knife for this step. You may have to push hard to get the foam to begin crumbling and flaking off, so take great care around sharp blades. Flip your knife over to the back edge and drag it along the sides and edges of your hills. Note: some brands of foam have a plastic film on each side that you can peel off to make this easier You want to make sure there’s room on each level for your miniatures to stand. If you want to stack pieces like I did, make sure your bases are big and you draw some smaller shapes that will fit on top. Long narrow crests, big round hills, or weird irregular shapes are fine. Trace irregular shapes onto your board with a pencil and then cut them out with your knife. You can also gussy these up with some basing supplies if you have those at hand. You can get sand and dirt from the local playground or your backyard no need to buy the fancy stuff unless you want to. You’ll also need some PVA glue, a sharp knife or box cutter, sand, and paint. It’s about $10 for a 4’x8’ board at the local orange-colored home supplies store. The base of these hills is pink insulation foam. For about $15 USD and some painting supplies, you can send your warriors into battle across these stunning stepped hills and mountains.
Fortunately, it doesn’t always have to be that way. The downside is that scenery can often take a lot of time and cost a lot of money. Miniature wargames are cinematic by their very nature and a well-crafted backdrop elevates the experience.
GAMES WORKSHOP HOW TO MAKE WARGAMES TERRAIN FULL
There’s something about painted miniatures charging across a custom built table full of scenic terrain that gets the dice clattering in the biological dice cup I call my heart. Join him on his journey this Monday for another episode on Alpha. On The Geek & Sundry Painters Guild, host Will Friedle (who is new to the hobby) is joined by veteran hobbyists who show him the ins and outs of painting minis.
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